Day Fifteen (July 17, 2006)

King Moshoeshoe’s birthday (pronounced Moshwaeshwae)

Some Lesotho history for you. On attaining independence from Britain in October, 1967 Lesotho chose to remain a Kingdom with a constitutional monarch. Paramount Chief Bereng Seeiso, who had assumed paramountcy in 1959, was sworn in as King Moshoeshoe II of the independent Kingdom of Lesotho. He was a direct descendant of Moshoeshoe I . Moshoeshoe I was the founder of the Besotho nation in 1800. At that time, the small, scattered Sotho speaking clans were almost totally destroyed by savage killing that took place during the terrible Lifaqane wars which seared the interior of South Africa in the years between 1820 and 1830. Moshoeshoe, desperate to preserve his tribe, moved his people to the highlands of central southern Africa. Here on this superb natural fortress, the infant nation was able to defend itself against incredible odds and survive. Few leaders of men have been more enlightened and so far in advance of his time as this warrior. The Besotho owe their existence to this reportedly gentle, sensitive and wise man.

The early Sotho speaking clans lived an idyllic life, keeping substantial cattle herds and planting sorghum. The discovery of diamonds in South Africa, brought the ‘British Invasion’. The British colonial government adopted and held a policy of indirect rule through the chiefs of each clan. This ‘partnership’ lasted until 1967. Negotiations for a national constitution took place between 1955 and 1959 and in 1960 the country’s first proper written constitution became operational. Prince Bereng Seeiso, one of the best educated of his generation, returned from Oxford in 1959 and assumed the paramountcy and eventually the Kingdom.

Lesotho also suffered during this king’s reign, fighting to maintain it’s independence while existing just north of the newly apartheid South Africa. Despite all of their struggles, the Besotho people have remained a peaceful, democratic state for over 50 years, managing to maintain their unique cultural identity while being completely surrounded geographically by South Africa with it’s recent history of political upheaval and apartheid.

For two hundred years they have overcome and contributed to what makes our planet unique, diverse and miraculous… until the scourge called HIV.

July 17- days end

I had an amazing afternoon. Adam was content to hang around the compound and bake biscotti. I bake better biscotti than him, by the way. I had the incredible opportunity of setting out on two adventures, on my own. I am now officially the ‘Lumela’ queen. Boy have I come a long way from fearfully keeping my head down that first week. Now I greet everyone and as I climbed the mountain behind ‘Little Canada’, I must have greeted fifty people, all inhabitants of mud huts that cover the side of the mountain. Louise showed me the path I needed to begin my ascent. Her name I can remember. The children rushed to greet the unusual white woman and as they did, I took their pictures. The rush of joy on their faces as they viewed their image digitally displayed, warmed my heart. I don’t think there are many times in our lives when we experience pure joy and contentment. That is what I found on that hillside this afternoon.

The more pictures I took, the more children joined the parade. Parents began to jump in on the act too but they extended invitations into their humble abodes. I entered hut after hut, my camera in hand. As I was making my way down the path, my little parade in pursuit, I greeted a young woman with a child on her back. We walked and talked at length. Her child is 12 months old. She is 19. She admired my Masai bracelet so I gave it to her. She almost danced as she lead me to her hut. It was surrounded by a beautiful garden. She wanted to give me a chicken but I deftly distracted her- what am I going to do with a live chicken on a mountain in Lesotho? Instead she showed me her ’shop’, a small 4 by 4 tin shack which she proudly opened to show me the various items she sells to support her family- mostly stale cheesies and fruit. When she opened the window of the shop, all the children that had followed us fought to place their coins on the shelf. She shooed them away and proudly posed with her child in her shop. As I left I had that unusual feeling of instant deep connection with this virtual stranger.

She is in fact not a stranger. Anyone who has had a child understands the importance of her task. Imagine accomplishing that task at 19, in striking poverty, alone and in a country on the brink of extinction. She exuded strength and confidence, joy and contentment. I know I did not exhibit those qualities at 19. As I left her I said, “You are strong. You will raise your child well. You will succeed”. She is the perfect Besotho to wear the only Masai bracelet I brought. She will wear it well.